![]() ![]() The outer frame is a snug enough interference fit that it retains them without any glue. In the above left you can see the acrylic disc that fits in the groove on the notepad. The raw printed goggles held up against the foam so you can see how they will fit on the Minion Head/helmet. If you use my files and make a costume, please send me a pic, I would love to see what you came up with and how it came out. You can scale them if you are making a smaller costume for a kid. ![]() Just remember that the goggles are designed to fit on a 12″ diameter head. I have uploaded the 3D cad models for my Minion Goggle design onto Thingiverse ( ) in both STL and an IGS assembly in case you want to make a Minion Halloween Costume of your own with some modifications. The head diameter on my costume is 12″ as this was the largest foam circular shape (more on this in Part 3 of Minion Costum Construction) I could find for a reasonable price. This is the rear piece that will fit up against the foam minion head that I was constructing for my costume. I was careful to count, scale, and locate the rivets based on many photos and screen shots from the DVD. I used support so the “rivets” around the outer perimeter would build cleanly. I did not take a enough photos, this is the front Goggle lens retainer being built. I slathered on some RTV to prevent further warping and prevent the build from being ruined due to the part separating from the build tray. At about 4 hours into the almost 9 hour build there was some warping and pulling away of the parts from the Kapton tape covered heated bed build platform. The blue stuff in the above photos is Silicon RTV adhesive. This keeps dirt/food/stuff of the painted eyeball area and makes the eyeballs appear more glossy and lifelike. My Despicable Me Minion Goggle Design have 2 clear plexiglass lenses for that true “goggle” look. I designed the Minion Goggles to be printed as multiple pieces to simplify painting, allowing for true to character final product. Quite heavy considering they are 6″ out from the center line of your head. The goggles when completed weighed in at ~1 lb. I printed it in 3 pieces to keep the weight down and use less filament. Both are amazing pieces of open source software built by the 3D printing community. I use Pronterface (seen above) and Slic3r to turn CAD models into plastic parts with my printer. ![]() The current layer is highlighted in red on the screen. I broke my model into 2 pieces so it would print easily and without wasted filament on support structures.Ībove, you can see the software printing out one of the 3 pieces of my Minion goggle design. If you want to build one you can print it in smaller pieces and glue it up. My 3D printer is much larger then most of the hobby FDM style printers out there, allowing me to build parts of this size in one piece. My goggles are designed to fit onto a 12″ diameter foam Minion head( ~11.5″x 5″x5″ dimensions. I wanted to make this the focal point of my costume and went to great lengths studying photos measuring toys, and watching the movies and shorts to get scale, proportion and details correct on this part of my Minion Costume for Halloween. I spent the bulk of my costume time designing acurate 3D models in CAD software of the Minions eyes and goggles. This post is a continuation of my previous post and will primarily cover the design and printing of the Minion Goggles with eyeballs used for my Minion Halloween Costume. ![]()
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